海洋岛屿 34 - 英语听力
Well we've turned up
And we've seen a couple of absolutely monster barrels
So we've got what we came for
And um I'm pretty nervous
Because I'm about to swim that huge torpedo camera back out there
And it's dangerous-looking
The big waves had brought surfers from all over the world
But this was definitely a day for the professionals
Bali was going to have to use all his surf experience
To get the shots without risking his safety
Positioning was going to be everything
This really is a dangerous sport
Superficially it looks a bit
Like skiing down the face of a mountain
The difference here is that the mountain is actually chasing you
And wanting to gobble you up as you go along
This is what we came for
Bali got into position for
His first shot of the day
A ten-foot barrel wave 10
Capturing a shot like this leaves
Little margin for error as Bali discovered
I tried to hold on as long as I could
And it sucked me over the falls afterwards
This thing is so heavy
I was in the foam inside trying to get up
My right leg cramped and
I couldn't get up for ages
I was just lucky there wasn't really much behind it
Or I'd still be in there trying to get out
